Day 18 - Adelaide
Online Journal for the 'Right Around Australia' project.

Sunrise over the water in Beachport (mosquitos still asleep)

Thawing out after a cold night
My bike was really doing it tough today. 70-80kph averages over the day and when you've got to battle crosswinds and the then the opposite forces when faced with a head on roadtrain, your hands take an absolute battering. I could see purple discoloration forming on my right palm this evening from gripping the throttle. The biggest problem for me is that 75-80kph is at about the end of the rev range for third gear, so whenever I dropped it into forth, she would stop whining and start grumbling and moaning. In fact she's been a whingy little bitch all day.
Packing up camp. Hard to believe it all sort of fits...
Racing the stormfront

South Australia is known for its good pickings...
We slogged our way through tiny town after tiny town watching the hour hand on my watch push later and later in the day, and to top off a killer of a ride we burnt our noses and probably our retina riding into Adelaide with the setting of the sun in the west ...

Progress so far
About 400km today.

Windfarms in the background

Mile upon mile of bouncy country roads (SA Highway)

Pine plantation forests

We soon left the wood chip capital to make for the limestone coast and took a route called the Ports Way. The landscape changed dramatically to a coastal, sandy sort of quagmire of sorts. Don't get me wrong, the beach was spectacular, just the wind and surrounding lands a bit repetitive when you are only travelling at 75kph average speed. We hit the not so pumping town of Beachport and set up our tent for the first time. I could say a lot more about Beachport and the limestone coast in general, but I might have to save it for the book, Right Around Australia, when we have it published.

We've realised we need to get a few things when we get to Adelaide, as we were a little dissorganised as a camping unit. We survived, however, and I have to say camping in the cold is a lot easier than in the heat of summer. Quite comfortable, yet, a little cramped. We have so much gear that must be kept in the tent, and it's all bulky stuff like jacket, helmet, technical gear and so on. So we had to set our cocoons up touching each other and just deal with it. Camp site $19, Coffee and Food for the evening $5, needing to pee at 1am at 5 degrees ... Priceless!

Sunrise at Bells Beach - Torquay




Pushing on to Apollo Bay, the road turns inland for awhile and heads up to a place called Lavers Hill. The bikes made the ride up quite easily, but we were met by the cloud line and freezing temperatures near the top. Visibilty dropped to about 100 metres. We took a few happy snaps and in the process were passed by a Moto Guzzi and Yamaha in the thick fog. The usual nods and waves followed before we did. Down the mountain side and we stopped in at the 12 Apostles for a sticky beak. They are pretty amazing.

We only managed to stop at the actual 12 Apostles Centre, where you can't actually see all the apostles. On top of that, there are only 7 left. Here, we also ran into our friends on the bikes we saw up at Lavers Hill. We had a bit of a chat and filled them in on our journey so far.

At Port Campbell we filled up and again ran into the Moto Guzzi and his partner on the Yamaha. Through my mistake, we did three laps of the one block that makes up Port Campbell before finding our way out of town. I'll tell you now, I'm a fantastic navigator. I know that might sound cocky, but I am. This is limited to big cities only however. When I get to towns with only 1 main drag and a couple of side streets, I can get lost for hours.
After 8 hours on the road, we pulled into Woornambool, and pulled out just as quick the next day ...
Ulls: Melbourne to Torquay, the Longway Round!
WE'VE FINALLY GOT SOME PICS UP FOR YOU ALL TO SEE, SPREAD THROUGHOUT THE DIARY ENTRIES
We've made Melbourne and are currently enjoying the hospitality offered by Paul and Laura and the warmth of their central heating ;) 
Paul & Lauras place
We had some big decisions to make in Sydney. We were quite a bit behind schedule and weren't sure how we were going to catch up, so we had to sit down and rethink our gameplan. From Sydney the plan was to head to Canberra, through the Snowies and onto Melbourne for a quick hello before heading to Tassie.

Safe and sound in Melbourne (Pauls scoot behind)

Paul coming home from work
We decided to skip Canberra for starters as the main reason we were heading there was to visit and old friend who was too busy anyway. The Snowies would have been nice, but we couldn't get any hard info from the Parks people about the road conditions, so we gave that the big flick and added it to the 'will do later' list. That only saved us a day and still left us behind schedule.

Based on when we had to be back in Melbourne, we would have to race through Tassie in about 3-4 days, cutting a lot of what we wanted to see there. This seemed like a real shame as from the beginning, Tassie was one of the places I really wanted to explore properly. So, race through Tassie in the shortest possile time, and tick it off our list, or come back later and do it properly?
What if we caught the Ferry direct from Sydney? A quick call to Cheryl at the 'Spirit of Tasmania' booking office confirmed the worst. As the service from Sydney is being wound up they are only sailing out once a week, and the next date we could go would be the following Sunday.
Ulick and I made or pro/con list and we ultimately decided that Tassie was too special to race through. We would have to come back and do it properly another time.
So... With a buffer of close to a week up our sleeves we made a beeline for Melbourne via Goulburn and Albury. By Goulburn I realised what we would really be missing in Tassie... COLD. It was dark by the time we pulled in. Due to a late start out of Sydney as I had to buy some warm riding pants we were racing the sunset and were beaten hands down. I pried my frozen fingers from my non-heated grips and realised I could not feel my thumb. My winter gloves are too big and I can't feel the levers through them so I opted for summery mitts with liners... a most stupid decision if i've ever made one.
Albury wasn't as cold. Probably due to the thick blanket of cloud that hung around all day. Not a lot to tell about Albury except that Germany beat Equador :) Who were the two idiots that decided that a trip around Oz during the world cup would be a good idea? We're catching a game here and there but it makes for some very slow starts in the mornings.
Bridge Road, Melbourne
Paul & Derek talking shop
The worlds fastest Indian - Dereks Indian LML T5 body with a PX200 engine
Monty's Bar - The guys from the Melbourne Scooter Connection showing us a night on the town
Lamb Bar - Ulick & Derek going head to head at Galaga
Frank from Vespa House putting a thread on a mirror he kindly gave me to replace the one lost in Byron
Rubicon Cafe - Meeting the Melbourne Scooter Connection guys in North Melbourne before going on our farewell ride.
Rubicon Cafe - The usual suspects
Out of Melbourne near the Brisbane Ranges
Last stop before we are back on our own again
Ulls: So if you haven't realised yet, that we're not riding by the planned route, then I'll let you in on the big secret. We're not riding by the planned route.


Ulls: Geez! How cold could it be?
Until we can update the sponsors & friends section of the website, I'd like to put a few mentions in here.
Cold...
We stopped for no one, pushing our little scooters late in the afternoon through amazing country. It's unfortunate though that the highway is so straight. There's not a lot in the way of entertaining twists or turns, just endless kilometres of browny grey highway. It's two lanes though, almost all of the way, which makes it a little less stressful, not having to pull over for hundreds of cars and trucks to pass.
Cold...
The sun began to set as we were about 20km out of Goulburn. Balaclavas out, glove liners, two pairs of socks and rugging up as much as possible. Exhaling inside your helmet, you still could see the frost blowing around. This caused our visors to fog up, and the only real solution was to lift it and brave the biting wind on your cheeks.

In the backyard with Suzie and Mike
Under the watchful eye of Dirka (-Dirka-Mohammed-Jihad) the cat
Ulick re-evaluating our route
Trying to get our thermals to dry
King Street, NewtownUlls: Again we were late leaving!


Ulls: We were late leaving Ballina today, about 10.30am.
View from the road up to the lighthouse
Hangliders overhead
The lighthouse at Cape Byron


